PREP? IN THIS ECONOMY? IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT AS THE RECESSION LOOMS, TRENDS THAT BOAST THE APPEARANCE OF WEALTH, LEISURE, AND STATUS COME TO THE FORE.

The economy is collapsing! Fear not—the return of prep is ready to serve old money, Ivy League, Abercrombie & Fitch meets Blair Waldorf realness.

While wealth, status, and leisure are hard to come by, embodying the appearance of it fares easier. This time around, studying Rory Gilmore and the Winklevoss twins won't do. The influence of recent trends like barbiecore, quiet luxury, Y2K, and the deconstructed Miu Miu mini skirt have transformed circa-2008 recessioncore prep into its slightly sexier, rebellious sister. Hemlines inch higher à la Y2K, tailoring unravels under punk influences, and pastels trade off with neutrals and bold hues.

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AS IT BAGS GET BIGGER, HBO’S GIRLS RESURFACES ON TWITTER, AND COLLECTIVE NOSTALGIA SHUFFLES FROM THE EARLY AUGHTS TO THE 2010S, ONE QUESTION ARISES: IS BOHO COMING BACK?

Trends like mermaidcore, cluttercore, and the '70s revival hint at boho's return with netting, flowing silhouettes, busy skirts, cowboy boots, and botanic influences. Meanwhile, fashion's focus on upcycling, patchworking, and recycled materials recreates the era's raw hems and mixed patterns.

Though a full-fledged return of the Olsen twins' NYU era may seem unlikely, the sisters' favorite Balenciaga tote is back and trickles of boho are seeping into our closets in brands like KNWLS, Blumarine, Gabriela Hearst, Stella McCartney, and Chloé.

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COCO STAR SIMS ON THE INNER CHILD, SHRIMP VISION, GETTING LOST, AND COMMON LORE.

Coco Star Sim’s drawings and tattoos are beyond realist—they edge on being cellular and microscopic, tracing the peculiarity of childlike wonder. And her goal is for you to get lost.

This sense of wonder, though, can feel difficult to access when everything seems to be deteriorating—whether it’s the protection of human rights or the health of our planet. As we confront the possibility that we may be living in a dystopia, the collective consciousness turns inward and backward, curious about what lies at the essence of our existence. Spirituality takes centerstage in the form of astrology, meme admins comfort us with absurd commentary, AI questions our life’s work, and Elon Musk wants to send us to Mars. We are confused, we are hopeful, we are scared, and we are curious about who we are—both as a human collective and as individuals. Enter here a meditation on the inner child: what we have lost, and what we are still longing to hold.

Our childhood memories morph, sway, and often slip away, but they hold permanence inside of us. They are the framework of who we are; essential experiences that we built our personalities, sensitivities, and lives around, whether we like it or not. 

It’s no coincidence that Coco’s work, which features bubbly, toylike characters, soft colors, and portals that ripple like a train of thought, has gained a cult following at a time like this. As aesthetic trends rapid fire on a weekly basis, one thing is without a doubt: the inner child is a common thread—whether it’s the innocent motifs of girlhood that shaped trends like balletcore, the toy charms we are adorning our bags with, The Substance-like obsession with anti-aging, or even the resurgence of the waif as celebrities swap out their curves for semaglutide. We long for a simpler existence, and search for symbols that reflect the childlike state: pure, carefree, unguarded, and small.

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THE ALTÉ MUSIC PIONEER TALKS GOD, FIGHT CLUB, JPG, ADHD, WINNING, AND SHUTTING UP.



It's mid-October and I'm at my New Brunswick home waiting for Odunsi to join a call on my busted iPhone 11. He hops on fashionably late and speaks with a quiet and slow inflection, alongside long pauses that imply genuine Contemplation. As we talk, I tunnel in on his voice to capture each word carefully, the same way you might when listening to his music. Odunsi (The Engine) first came onto the scene in 2018 and quickly became known as a pioneer of the alté genre and the new guard of Nigerian music. Celebrating five years since the release of his debut album, rare., the singer-songwriter and rapper opens up about faith, family, mental health, and everything from Fight Club to fashion.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

GOING PANTLESS—EXHIBITIONIST OR MINIMALIST?

Pants are so last year. When Kendall Jenner stepped out in a pantless look (head-to-toe Bottega Veneta and a sunflower bouquet), SS23 runways and Bella Hadid's pantless pizza run came to mind. Fast-forward to 2023 and more stars and designers have embraced going pantless—Kylie Jenner in Loewe tighty-whities, Julia Fox in extreme VALERIEVI cutouts, and Rick Owens's leather bodysuits—in briefs, tights, bodysuits, micro cutoffs, and more. Even Jonathan Anderson got rid of pants at his FW23 menswear show in Milan.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

LOGOS ARE OUT—NOW WHAT? MEET THE HYBRID SUIT DUDE (AND HIS FRIENDS).

For guys who are done with their logo hoodies but not quite ready to adopt the mores of the Quiet Luxury Movement ™, let us introduce spring's new suiting. It's bold. It's brazen. It's making a mark.

2023 runways have confirmed one thing: streetwear is out and formal is in. Sophisticated, powerful silhouettes and logo-free garments dominated runways, replacing casual, branded wear. But now that logo-mania has fallen out of favor for visceral textures, telling hues, and quiet neutrals, what happens to the hypebeasts? Swipe through to find your people, sans-logo.

The hoodie underneath the Hybrid Suit Dude's blazer represents his ghost of streetwear past. The Hybrid Suit Dude is for the suit agenda—but not yet ready to part with his hypebeast tendencies.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

AMPHIBIOUS GARMENTS ADDRESS RISING TIDES AND SIREN STYLE.

Under the sea lives vast aesthetic potential: seductive nymphs, Greek gods, shimmering scales, buried treasure, iridescent pearls, fish, that whale from Avatar. Also, our next home? If global warming proceeds at expected rates, come 2100, for instance, the gondoliers of Venice will be the last ones floating in the great city. As the world processes this anxiety, brands like Blumarine, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, KNWLS, and Elena Velez are getting wet in hues of light blue, sea green, aquamarine, and turquoise.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

CHESTS ARE BEST! PLUNGING V-NECKS ARE REDEFINING MENSWEAR.

Is loving the skin you're in the latest menswear trend? JW Anderson FW23 went pantless, and Haider Ackermann designed a custom backless halter for Timothée Chalamet; still, it might be bare chests from Gucci, Botter, and Dior Men that are the most expressive new menswear trend. The deep V embodies fashion's dual fixations with futurism and nostalgia. It combines the sensual, rebellious ethos of '70s British rock (Freddie Mercury, David Bowie, and Robert Plant) with Victorian romanticism and the steady progression toward universalizing womenswear. 

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

A gritty romanticism lays the groundwork for Suzhou River’s pieces, much like the 2000 Chinese romance-drama of the same name. Models that scatter the brand’s Depop and Instagram turn into Noir-like characters, styled in brands like Yohji Yamamoto, Hysteric Glamour, Chloé, Maison Margiela, and more. A pantless look takes Bottega Veneta SS23 and raises it three more: red socks, Miu Miu kitten heels, and a Tsumori Chisato peacoat. Classic materials like suede, leather, cotton, and wool take precedent, hinting at a quiet luxury—but without mundane limitations.

Suzhou River is for the maven that isn’t fooled by trend cycles. Each item is authenticated and pulled by experts that encourage the wearer to embody confidence and care, and any select can become a wardrobe centerpiece for years to come. 

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TRY A BELT—OR 10—ON FOR SIZE. EXPLORE THE META-ACCESSORIES TREND THAT WILL HAVE YOU ALL TIED UP.

Last year, Diesel debuted the B-Berny belt skirt; Kim Kardashian layered 15 belts to make a dress; triple-prong belts made a comeback; and maximalism debated function. Since then, the repurposing of belts on items like bags, shirts, shoes, and jackets has been on the rise, combining punk, utilitarian, and Y2K influences. Accessorized accessories turn this trend meta while the functional belt expands into stand-alone ready-to-wear. 

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

HBO’S THE WHITE LOTUS HAS CAPTIVATED AUDIENCES WITH THE EXPLOITS OF ITS DYSFUNCTIONAL AND PLEASURE-SEEKING RESORT GUESTS. COSTUME DESIGNER ALEX BOVAIRD’S STYLING CHOICES HAVE TURNED THE HEADS OF FASHION FANATICS TOO, DIVIDING TWITTER’S FASHION CRITICS.

Alongside their dysfunctional diversions, The White Lotus's privileged and pleasure-seeking resort guests offer relatable fashion tropes. From Tanya's romantic kaftans and nostalgic pink silk scarves to Portia's Tik Tok-trend fatigue and Cameron's camp finance-bro shirts, the looks by costume designer Alex Bovaird offer something for everyone.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.  

BARBIECORE TOOK THE INTERNET BY STORM IN 2022. AS NEW TRENDS COME TO THE FORE, BARBIECORE WILL EVOLVE OR FIZZLE OUT.

GRETA GERWIG'S BARBIE & THE Y2K REVIVAL

The Y2K revival revved into turbo mode when behind-the-scenes photos of Greta Gerwig's Barbie took over the internet. Ryan Gosling and Margot Robbie in rollerblades and head-to-toe pink sparked a new nostalgia for the age of the Barbie.

VALENTINO PINK

Valentino teamed up with the Pantone Color Institute to enshrine PP Pink: a deep hot pink meant to be worn head to toe. Celebrities sporting the bright pink hue were impossible to ignore (everyone from Florence Pugh to Zendaya tried out the color), making pink front of mind.

PRETTY LITTLE THINGS!

Lighter shades of the color pink began to trickle into our closets and moodboards as items, motifs, and trends reminiscent of Barbie's Y2K reign—think toy purses, pretty butterfly and swirl patterns, Miu Miu miniskirts, and balletcore—gained traction on the runways and IRL.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

THE COLOR OF SURGICAL MASKS AND MELTING ICEBERGS HAS MADE ITS WAY INTO OUR CLOSETS. MOVE OVER, MILLENNIAL PINK—DYSTOPIAN BLUE IS HERE.

Seen on the SS23 and FW23 runways of

Maison Margiela, Fendi, Kiko Kostadinov,

Emporio Armani, Casablanca and more,

the color that ranges from a soft powder

to a barely there steel has the delicate

innocence of light pink with apocalyptic

undertones. Whether it reminds you of

utilitarian workwear, childhood, hospitals, or eco-

anxiety, dystopian blue will be everywhere

in 2023.

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THIS SEASON, ROMANTICISM COMES TO THE FORE IN THE FORM OF BALLETCORE, A TREND CHRISTENED ON SOCIAL MEDIA BUT SEEN IN THE REAL WORLD AND THE RUNWAYS ALIKE. IN ITEMS, FROM MIU MIU, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, AND COMME DES GARÇONS, SOFT PINKS, TULLE, AND FEMININE KNITS MEET WITH A TENDER TWIST.

Pirouetting like The Royal Ballet's Natalia Osipova isn't a prerequisite for trying out ballet-inspired style. Dubbed "balletcore" by Tik Tok users, the trend for romantic, feminine, and pale pink layers is also favored by Bella Hadid who has been sporting a Dilara Findikoglu bow-trimmed bodice and brands like Miu Miu, Blumarine, and Mimi Wade.

Swipe through to shop current pieces that evoke Natalie Portman's look in "Black Swan." The film's costumes were designed by Rodarte after all....

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

BALLETCORE—BUT MAKE IT MENSWEAR. EXPLORE THE LATEST RENDITION OF THE ROMANTIC TREND.

Balletcore's romantic influence on fashion isn't over yet. The trend that epitomizes femininity and classical refinement has entered the realm of menswear. 

Brands like GAUCHERE, Aaron Esh, Dion Lee, Peter Do, and K.NGSLEY have embraced delicate layers, skin tight fits, corporeal cutouts, and graceful tailoring with nods to womenswear. Swipe through to explore the gauzy, poetic menswear trend.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

WHO IS STEPHEN BURROWS?

Born to a Trinidadian-American father and an African American mother in Newark, American designer Stephen Burrows designed his first ready-to-wear collection in 1968 for Bonwit Teller. Soon after, Burrows launched Stephen Burrows World inside a Henri Bendel, imbuing his collections with his love for sewing and dance. His vibrant and body-conscious designs captured the quintessential '70s woman-colorful, whimsical, sexy, and playful-attracting '70s icons like Diana Ross, Cher, and Barbra Streisand.

PIONEERING THE LETTUCE HEM

Burrows introduced the lettuce hem early in his career-the fluted zig-zag stitch, rumored to be born out of a mistake, became a trademark of his designs. Burrows used the unique hem in colorblocking and patchworking techniques, adding movement and play to jersey garments that came to embody New York's era of disco.

WHERE IS THE LETTUCE HEM TODAY?

Burrows's curling hem, produced by the overstretching of jersey and a narrow stitch, remained popular throughout the decade and reemerged in the 1990s and again in the 2010s-think baby doll tops and midi skirts. By the 2020s, increased interest in upcycling and thrifting repopularized the technique, as seen in the designs of labels like sacai, KNWLS, Anna Sui, Molly Goddard, Gimaguas, and more.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.  

WHAT DO VELMA, MALCOLM X, STEVE JOBS, AND MIRANDA PRIESTLY HAVE IN COMMON?

Could Anna Delvey have scammed millionaires without her chunky CELINE glasses? Would we love Harry Potter the same without his perpetually broken wire frames?

Statement eyewear possesses uncanny character-defining powers. The classic accessory can make a lasting impression—and the right pair become one with the wearer, paramount to their presence. And what do Velma, Malcolm X, Steve Jobs, and Miranda Priestly have in common? Swipe through.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

IN A WHIRLWIND OF INS, OUTS, YEAR-IN-REVIEW LISTS, AND CALLS FOR REFLECTION, SELF-CARE IS VITAL. 

HIT START

The new year is the perfect time to reset and pamper. Push back your silk sleep mask, throw a plush blanket over your shoulders, and put on a coffee. Follow along for a step-by-step guide to pushing start on 2023.

SUIT UP

While your coffee brews, suit up for self-care. Cotton and Sherpa are on the menu.

REVIEW RESOLUTIONS

While sipping on your cigarette mug, check off "quit cigarettes" in your Thom Browne notebook.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

CREATIVE GROWTH HAS INFILTRATED CONTEMPORARY ART.



From the first day Creative Growth was started in the East Bay home of Elias Katz and Florence Ludins-Katz, the vision was clear. The Katzs knew that art was fundamental to human expression and that all people were entitled to its tools—this would be a path forward for people with developmental disabilities.

Creative Growth is no amateur operation. MoMA, SFMOMA, the Smithsonian, the Studio Museum of Harlem, Collection de L'Art Brut, and the American Folk Art Museum are all institutions that have turned their heads and acquired art born out of the former auto repair shop converted studio.

The Oakland, California, atelier has become home to more than 140 multi- hyphenate artists since its 1974 conception. It has made echoes in the inclusion of artists with developmental disabilities, and the work rings bright-saturated country scenes, curiously abstract portraits, elaborate cartoon figures, and shiny, scene-setting sculptures.

Facilitated by professional artists, the studio uses its sales to support itself: to provide creative mentoring and high-quality materials to its artists, while helping to fund public exhibitions and represent its artists at international art fairs every year. Here, Local Optimist has rounded up six Creative Growth artists that are strengthening the community.

cont’d:

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2023 MENSWEAR TAKES CUES FROM WOMENSWEAR, THE ’70S, AND Y2K R&B.



AGE OF AQUARIUS

Designers like Our Legacy, Acne Studios, LU'U DAN, and ERL have been throwing it back to the '70s with floral button-downs, flared pants, and electric color schemes.

2001 SHIELDS

Taking cues from the world of slope style and 2000s R&B, eyewear shields, tints, and rimless styles are coming back in the big way.

SLOUCHY DENIM

Y2K is showing its everlasting face once again with the return of baggy jeans. The slouchy denim style from the '90s and aughts has been seen on and off the runways of VETEMENTS, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Peter Do.

cont’d:

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GET IN THE MOOD FOR THE INTERNET’S FAVORITE SEASON WITH THESE FIRESIDE SCORCHERS: A SAFFRON AND PUMPKIN-HUED ASSORTMENT OF OUR MOST AUTUMNAL SSENSE SELECTS.

When throwing back PSLs, picking apples, frolicking in fallen leaves, and scrolling by the fire, heed this warning: Autumnal activities are best executed in proper pumpkin-hued attire. Swipe on for our favorite SSENSE selects for fall.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

IS YOUR WARDROBE IN NEED OF SOME CHARACTER BUILDING? TRY A MAXIMALIST PATTERN ON FOR SIZE. 

Mix patterns and channel your inner maximalist in three easy steps: offset the scales, distribute the strengths, and embrace the power of clash. Seen on runways in the extravagant stylings of Gucci, the fierce plaid winter looks of Marine Serre, and the happy-go-lucky stripes of Marni, maximalist patterns can liven up your winter looks this season. Swipe on for our favorite patterned SSENSE picks.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

WHETHER YOU TOOK A PAGE FROM THE SSENSE FW22 TREND REPORT OR ARE SIMPLY EXCITED ABOUT THE HOLIDAYS, RED MAY BE ON YOUR MIND. SWIPE THROUGH FOR A BREAKDOWN OF ITS ALLURE AND TO SHOP OUR MOST SCARLET SSENSE SELECTS.

Red is the color of glamour. It's also the color of love, of romance, and of celebration. The right dash of red oozes sophistication—think lavish curtains drawn before a symphony—but it also represents an element of fun, like the mischief of a maraschino cherry on top of a sundae. Whatever your mood, swipe on for our most inviting crimson SSENSE selects.

READ THE FULL PIECE HERE.

The @BeatsbyDre x @KimKardashian collaboration was born out of Kim's need for a seamless earpiece that didn't take away from her look. Engineered to deliver powerful, balanced sound via a custom acoustic platform and an advanced digital processor, the Beats Fit Pro optimizes audio performance for loudness, clarity, and noise-cancellation. #BeatsxKim: Available now on #SSENSE. What track are you streaming in yours?

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